^ THE NEW *-^ 



^WLMi^n^MlL €WTTWil„ 



A. TREATISE 

ON THE 

SCIENCE AND PRACTICE 

OP 

CUTTING GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS, 

COiSTTAININGJ- 

NEW, SYSTEMATIC AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

BY WHICH TO MEASURE, DRAFT AND CUT GARMENTS OF ALL SIZES, FORMS AND 

POSITIONS, FROM THE CHILD TO THE MOST PROMINENT FIGURE, FROM 

THE EXTREME ERECT TO THE MOST STOOPING 



j\£OTTO : ^'OJSTJS ^HZTT^Jt: 12^ A.T^L CJ^SES." 



ESPECIALLY DESIGlOiD AND DEVOTED FOR TAILORS' AND CUTTERS' USR 



BY 







f 




1885. 



Entered accorfliii-i; to act of Congress, in the year 1885, by Laueu & Yost, of Cleveland, Ohio, in the office Of the Librarian 

of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



THE NEW 



— t.r 



II 






LV. 






^>^ 



sfl 



A. TREATISE 



ON THE 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE 



OP 



CUTTING GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS, 



CONTAINING^ 



NEW, SYSTEMATIC AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS, 

BY AVHICH TO MEASURE, DRAFT AND CUT GARMENTS OF ALL SIZES, FORMS AND 

POSITIONS, FROM THE CHILD TO THE MOST PR03IINENT FIGURE, FROM 

THE EXTREME ERECT TO THE MOST STOOPING. 



P 



J£OTTO : "'02^E 'il'ULIE 11^ u^^LL CJLSIES." 



ESPECIALLY DESIGNED AND DEVOTED FOR TAILORS' AND CUTTERS' USE. 



BY 



C. STEXJEIi3Sr^^G}-EI^. 




1885 







im 20 1885 



v^.>.. t'^^^K^^y 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1885, by Lauer & Yost, of Cleveland, Ohio, in the office of the Librarian 

of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



~-< PREFACE, y^ 




TAILORING is in our day a highly-esteemed trade, and cutting gentlemen's gar- 
ments correctly and securing a good fit is, therefore, very important. And yet 
hjif] Students and cutters are frequently misled by deficient systems. 
'^'' ^^ ''^ acknowledged that cutting garments by a set of patterns is a very uncer- 

tain way; experience also teaches that drafting good-fitting and well-becoming 
garments by scales (a division of breast or shoulder measure) fails in many cases, neither are 
different rules nor sizes of scales used by such systems sufficient to state the right points 
necessary in all cases. 

Even proof measures will not rectify such uncertain points stated by scales, because such 
a mass of marks, proofs and repeated trials will only confuse and tire students and cutters, and 
difficulties, guesswork, misfits and dissatisfaction of cutters and customers are generally the 
painful results. 

It is true that many cutters gain their knowledge by a long course of study and practice 
laboring incessantly to overcome difficulties, being misled by uncertain systems, generally 
charmingly illustrated and highly recommended; but there are a great many students and 
cutters, who are longing for something more certain and practical. 

Therefore, at the earnest request of cutters and students, the author appears with his 

"NEW PRACTICAL CUTTER," 

THE GREAT INVENTION, 

and the result of many years' study and experience in the science and art of cutting gar- 
ments. In this system the modern art of cutting is based on a sure fnudamental measure- 
ment and points stated on the body, and applied in drafting by measure-tape and square 
in a most simple and practical manner not known before. 

A certain principle and location of points enables the artist to cut good-fitting and 
well-becoming garments, no matter how form and position change, from the child to the most 
prominent figure, for the extreme erect or stooping as well as for the symmetrical form. 

This system teaches the main principles by which the author teaches in his school; by it 
students will save time, gain advantages too numerous to mention, and overcome difficulties 
which many others have to endure during the first years of their experience, and others their 
life-time. 

It will teach those at home, whose circumstances may not allow them to visit a school, 
and ought to be in the hands of all students and cutters. 

THE AUTHOR. 

(G. 3 ) 



INTRODUCTION. 




,HE science or art of cutting garments is not positively an offspring of natural gifts, but 
even to those who are born artists of the trade, it is still a hidden treasure in the field, 
unless they are instructed. It is true, many cutters gain their knowledge by long 
practice; but no one should spend his time and energ}- without a sj'stematic guide, or be 
misled by poor uncertain systems, no matter how ample their representations or elaborations are. 

To become a good cutter, we present to the student of the art for earnest and perse- 
vering stud}' our new system. 

The scientific artistic teacher ot this s)"stem, Avith his practical advisers in our school, 
should be preferred before exclusi\"e self study And thus the earnest study and knowledge 
of the laws given in this book, enable us to become good cutters according to correct prin 
ciples and practice in a comparativel}' short time. No one should be discouraged about 
takmg so many measures; such a one will be more discouraged when standing at the cutting- 
board without them, not knowing how the work may fit, if here or there is too much or not 
enough cloth; and trouble, loss of time and mone}' A\ill possibh' be the result. 

We must stud)- these measures as scholars their ABC; and when done with this, we shall 
much sooner become proficient cutters, than scholars become good readers and writers; 
because the words of a language are thousands, but the points of a draft are onh' a few more 
in number than our measures. I call }-our attention to my Reliable Square and Measure 
Book, especially designed for this system, though it may be used with advantage in other 
systems also. 

THE FUNDAMENTAL THEORY 

First. — It principally states the entire rejection of the application of scales from breast, 
shoulder or an}' other measure to state points correctly by, as insufficient in regard to different 
forms we meet ever}' clay. 

Second. — By a scientific knowledge the statement of so many points on the bod} and th 
reception of so many measures as necessary to draft a well fitting pattern b}' 

Third. — The strict construction of draft by measures as the principal means in combina 
tion and application with the square and a certain rule, to receive the right pattern and correct 
fit for each form. Motto One rnle in all cases. 

Fourtli. — Ii contains the construction of the Sack, Frock, Overcoats, Vests and Pants, 
illustrated by Drafts, etc, 

(G. 4.) 



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HOV/ TO TAKE MEASURE. 

Sufficient and correct measures are the principal means by which we can expect a correct draft and well-fitting 
pattern. We use a narrow inch or centimeter tape of good material and plain figures, and a caliber square with a 
sliding arm and measure tape attached. 

We take all measures over the vest. 

Circumference of neck, — take it close over the collar, where the seam ought to be. 

Circumference of breast, — around the breast, close under arms over blades, meeting at centre of the back, 
taken close. 

Circumference of waist, — take it close. 

Diameter of neck, — from side to side. 

Diameter of breast, — from side to side, close under arms, and mark depth of scye at centre of back and back 
of arms. 

Diameter of waist, — from side to side at waist. 

Diameter of hip, — from side to side three inches below waist. 

Next take a belt about one inch wide, put it around the waist, to mark length of waist correctlj' by it. 

Diameter height of shoulder, — by putting the square in front of the left arm, with one arm above shoulder, 
with the other under arm, level with marks made before, mark inside of square perpendicular across waist and hip, 
then notice measure, — height of shoulder. 

Diameter width of shoulder, — apply square level under arm and measure from front of arm to back of arm by 
the sliding arm of the square. 

The socket measure, — take it bj' the tape on the square from front of arm easy over shoulder up to socket-bone, 
top of back seam. 

Shoulder measure, — from front of arm over shoulder to depth of sc^-e at centre of back and close. 

Short scye measure. — from front of arm over shoulder to depth of scye back of arm. 

Blade measure, — from front of arm over blade to centre of back, cautiouslj'. 

Width of back, — from I to E and I to A, see diagram, taken from diam. height of shoulder point at back 
arm of square. 

Length under arm, — from front of ai-m down to point at waist. 

Length of sleeve, — b}' square from front of arm to wrist. 

Height of top of sleeve, — from side of neck to depth of scye point at upper sleeve. 

Elbow, — around elbow as wide as sleeves are desired. 

Hand, — around the most prominent part of hand. 

Height of back, — from socket bone to depth of scye. 

Length of back, — from socket to point of waist. 

Full length of coat, etc. 

Length of front, — from socket bone to point of waist. 

Height of front, — from neck down to point of waist, extended to the floor. 

Small of breast, — take it from the centre front of arm over the breast to front of arm. 

Small of waist, — from point of waist in front to point of waist at side +, extended to point of waist at back, 
taken close. 

Small of hip, — from the front to the side +, extended to point of hip at back and to seat from the same point. 

PANTS MEASURE. 



Length of side, inside length, foot, knee, short thigh, long thigh, seat, hip and waist, — taken as long, close, easy 
or loose as the garment is desired. 

(G. r>.) 




THE SACK. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE S. B. SACK. Diagram i. 

Square from O to D and O to H. 

From O to A is one-half of an inch in all cases. 

A to B is height of back, to C length of back. 

E is diameter height of shoulder from B, 

+ IS half distance of B — C from C. D is full length. 

Square in from B, C, D, E and +. 

a is one-fourth of excess of blade measure to small of waist from C. 

c is from D half distance of C — -a. 

Draw line from B throutrh a X.o c. 

F is blade measure and excess of diam. of hip to diam. of breast from B. 

e \.o f'vs, the excess referred to. 

G. is blade measure, less diam. wndth of shoulder from B. 

Square up from G and up and down from F. 

d is one-third of G — I from G. 

* is half distance of e-f from X. 

Y is small of hip and one and one-half inches from *. 
L is half wa}' from * to //. 

Square from L to M. 

K is waist point from F. 

g is excess of diam. of hip to diam. of waist from K, Apply small of hip from ^ to // 
and small of waist from g to a and take out excess from i to / and at Z. 

Now we come to the particular neck and shoulder points. Here we teach a rule, by which 
we find these points in all cases with certainty, which makes this system superior to all others. 

Width of back is correctly stated by actual measure from I to E (not from E to I), also 
from I — A. 

H is half diam. width of neck, less one-fourth of an inch from A. 

J is one-fourth diam. width of shoulder from I. 

Draw line from J to H. 

1 is perpendicular to H. 

2 half way from i to I. 

3 is small of breast from square line at E. 

4 is corner of square applied from H through 2 to 3. 

5 halfway from 4 to H. Square from 5 to 6. 

N is same distance from F, as H from 5. Square from N to P. 

P is actual measure from F to socket, less A — H. Square from 7 through P to Q. 

8 is same distance from 7, as 6 from 5. Draw line from P through 8. Apply back H — I 
from P to R. Apply shoulder measure from B to ;;/, extend it from F to ;/. Appl}' short scye 
measure from G to I, extending from F to R, curving one inch over line. 

O is one-sixth of neck from P. 

S is half breast measure and excess e — ^from B. Draw line from Q through S, to dot, 
two inches below S. 

T is one and one-half inches from dot. 

U is length of front from A. 

V height of front from U, and one inch from line Q — S. Sweep neck by O — P and add one- 
half of an inch. Draw centre line from V through T — Y. Apply measure of shoulder strap 
from 9 to 10; also, small of breast adding one inch and curve according to scye measures. 

T to W is one and one-fourth inches for button stand. Square bottom by back line, and 
finish as on diagram. Cut out pattern, and add all seams, except at sc)'e. 

For the overcoat, measure over the body coat, or add two and one-fourth inches to breast, 
Avaist and hip measures. In division of halves add three-eights of an inch under arm, width 
of back and shoulder seam, and three-fourths of an inch in front of breast. 

(G. 7 ) 





B 



/ DIA. 3. 



COLLAR. 



SLEEVE. 



9m 



THE SLEEVE. Diagram 2. 

A good fitting sleeve must be drafted by width of scye and height of top measure in 
reference to width of shoulder strap, where top of sleeve will meet the same, because a wide 
shoulder needs a lower top and a narrow shoulder needs a higher one. 

Square from O to C and O to I. 

O to A is actual measure of top and one-half seam. 

A to C is length of sleeve. D is half way from A to C. 

B is one-quarter of top from O. Square in from D, A and B. 

E from A is one-half of scye; F is one-half of B — E from A. Square from F to I and 
Eto H. 

G is one-quarter of B — E from B. 

K is half distance of B — G from E or half scye from A — T — L. L from F is same as 
K from E. Draw line from A to G and L to K. 

S is the same from H as K from E, 

O is half hand measure from C. Square bottom by H from * to C and b)- S from O 
to *. 

U is half distance of E — K from A; also W from C, the curve from D and T, and \' 
from front line. 

Y is curved parallel with upper sleeve. Finish as on diagram and add all seams. 

The notch of the back for the sleeve seam is width of under sleeve applied from F to 
f extended from e. 



Mit^ 



•»j^ 



THE COLLAR. 



Diagram 3. 



Draw a square, the width of neck, and one-half of an inch in length and two and one- 
half inches wide. 

Draw straight line from P to V at neck of coat. 

From the centre of this line to curve of neck, less one-half of an inch, we take off at a, 
and the same at 5. From a — c make same distance as from d — e. 

(G. 9.) 



DRAFT OF D. B. FROCK AND THREE BUTTONED S. B. CUTAWAY. Diagram 4. 

Square from O to D and O to H. 

From O to A is one-half of an inch in all cases. 

A to B is height of back. 

E is diameter height of shoulder from B. 

+ is half distance of B — C from C. 

D is full length. Square in from B, C, D, /, & +. 

a is one-quarter excess of blade measure to small of waist from C. Draw line from B 
to a and extend it square down. 

F is blade measure and excess of diameter of hip, to diameter of breast from B. 

c toy^is the excess referred to. 

G is blade measure, less diameter width of shoulder from B. Square up from G and up 
and down from F. d is half distance of G — I. 

* is half distance of e — /"from X. 

Y. is small of hip and one and one-half inches from *. 

b is same distance from B as a from C. 

c half way from B to G. 

i is one-quarter small of ^^aist from a. Square down from / to M. 

K is one-quarter of excess of* diameter of hip to diameter of waist from front of arm line, 
and waist point from F. K to y^ is one-quarter small of waist, k \.o g \s excess ot 
diameter of hip to diameter of waist. 

g toy is half of small of waist. Curve back and side body and drop it half as much at Z 
as/ is from q. State width of back correctly by actual measure from I to E; also A from the 
same point. 

H is half diameter width of neck less one-fourth of an inch from A. 

J is one-quarter diameter wddth of shoulder from I. Draw line from J to H. 

1 is perpendicular to H. ^ 

2 halfway from i to I. 

3 small of breast from square line at E. 

4 is corner of square, applied from H through 2 to 3. 

5 half way from 4 to H. Square out from 5 to 6. 

N is same distance from F as H from 5. Square up from N to P. 

P is actual measure from F to socket, less A — H. Square from 7 through P to O. 

8 is same distance fi-om 7 as 6 from 5. Draw line from P through 8. Apply back H — I 
from P to R. Apply shoulder measure from B to w, extend it from F to n. Apply short scye 
measure from G to I, extend it from F to R, curving^ i inch over line. 

O is one-sixth of neck from P. 

S is half breast measure and excess c — y from B. Draw line from O through S to dot two 
inches below S. 

T is one and one-half inches from dot. 

U is length of front from A. 

V height of front from U and one inch from line O, S. Sweep neck by O — P and add half 
an inch Draw and curve front from V to T — Y, reducing half an inch at Y. Apply measure 
of shoulder strap from 9 to 10; also small of breast, adding one inch, and curve according to 
scye measures. Mark one-quarter distance from P to 7, and sweep by it from Z to T — U line 
for length of front. Draw line from p through sweep-point and up from Y for lapel. Make 
lapel two and one-half inches at bottom, two and three-fourths inches at W and two inches 
at top. Raise at 2^ to make bottom of front square, r is same distance from q 2iS p from q. 
Square back line of skirt by r — Z, and raise skirt half distance from r to q. Curve one-quarter 
of same at h or according to seat measure from *. ,y is same distance from line ^ as Z from 
the same line. Square from r through i- across 2 ^/^ for front of shirt. Square bottom 
of skirt by front line and finish as on diagram. Cut pattern, but all seams must be added 
except at scye. The cutaway is drafted the same, except the front, as shown by dotted line. 
From T add one and one-fourth inches for button stand. Cut away through Y, then about 
straight down. Drop skirt at sweep point in front one-half of an inch. For the Overcoat 
measure over the body-coat, or add two and one-fourth inches to breast, waist and hip 
measures. In division of halves add three-fourths of an inch under arm, width of back and 
shoulder seam, and three-fourths of an inch in front of breast. (e. 11.) 

1 1 




THE S. B. VEST. 

12 



THE S. B. VEST WITH STAND UP COLLAR. Diagram 5. 

To draft a well-fitting vest for any form and position under the coat as well as without, 
we take the same measure as for the coat, except the sleeve and skirt measures. The extra 
measures are from socket bone to the highest button extended to full length. 

Square from O to D and to H. 

to A is one-half of an inch in all cases. 
A to B is height of back 

E is diameter height of shoulder from B. 
C is lenofth of back at waist. 

D is half distance of B — C from C. Square in from E, B, C and D. 
G is blade measure, less diameter width of shoulder from B. Square up from G, 
e is one-quarter of breast and one-half of an inch from B. 

E is blade measure and excess of diameter width of hip to diameter width of breast from B, 
y"is the excess referred to from e. 
H is half diameter width of neck from A. 
J is one-quarter diameter of shoulder from G line. Draw line from H to J. 

1 is square down from H at line E. 

2 is half way from i to G line. 

3 is small of breast from back line at E. 

4 is corner of square applied from H through 2 to 3. 

5 is half way from H to 4. Square from 5 to 6, and curve from ^ to G line. 
N is same distance from F as H from 5. 

P is actual measure from E to socket bone, less H — A. 

8 is same distance from 7 as 6 from 5. 

Draw line from P through 8 to R. 

Apply back H — I line from P to R. 

Apply shoulder measure from B to m, extend it from E to w, drop or raise shoulder strap, 
when necessary, and curve one inch below line under arm and one and one-fourth inches over 
line in front of arm. 

S is half breast and excess e — y^from B. 

Q is one-sixth of neck from P. 

Draw line fram O through S to dot. 

T is one and one-fourth inches from dot. "" 

* is one-half excess e — y^from front of arm line. 

Y is small of hip and one inch from * and lower button. 
U is length of front of waist. 

V is heio-ht of front from U and three-fourths of an inch from O — S line. 
Draw line V through T — U to Y. 

K is small of waist and one-half of an inch from U and hip point from F. 
Curve from _/ through K toward * to Z. 
Z is three inches from K. 

g is excess of diameter of hip to diameter of waist. 
b to / is small of waist cut out in the middle of C — g. 
b is square down from a. 
Square line from Z io b by back line. 
L is small of hip from b. 

W is three-fourihs of an inch for button stand from T. 
Finish as on diagram. 

It is understood that all seams must be added. 

Diagram Nos. 6 and 7 are drafted the same, except for the highest button, Ave apply 
measure, and finish with or without collar, as clearly stated by lines. 

For a double-breasted vest, we add lapel from T, instead of button stand. 

(G 13.) 



TO DRAFT THE PANTALOON. Diagrams 8 and 9. 

The measures are: — Length, foot, knee, thigh, seat, hip and waist, — taken as long, 
close, easy or loose as the garment is desired. 

Draw line A — B to dot one-third of foot below B 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C inside length, and D to E at knee. 

Sweep by dot as pivot from B, D, C and A. 

F is one-sixth of foot from B; E is the same, and one inch added in all cases. 

H is half of knee from D, and G is the same. 

I is half of short thigh from C, and J is the same. 

K is one-third of thigh from C. 

M is half of long thigh from J. 

L is same distance from K as M from L 

N is one-quarter of waist from A, and P is the same. 

I is half distance of K — I from K. 

From I to 2 is same as I from M. 

THE BACK PART. 

From A to B is one-sixth of waist. 
D is one-quarter of hip from J. 

Square from C through B to E and F, by raising E one-twelfth 01 seat from B. 
F is one-quarter of hip from E. 
Draw line from D to E. 
G is half-way from D to B. 

Subtract one-fourth of hip measure from one-half of seat measure, apply excess, one-half 
from K to H, and the other half from G to L 
L is one-quarter of seat from E. 
Draw line from L to N, and from F through H. 
Apply waist measure, and take out P. 
Q is one-twelfth seat measure from M. 
R is three-fourths of an inch added in all cases. 
S to T is half foot, from U to Y is the same. 
Finish as on diagram, and add all the seams. (0. 15.) 



15 



LIBRARY OF CONGf?P<:c 

lii. 



